Munch DC

Bombora, a Latin-Asian Gem on the Ocean City Boardwalk

2011-09-01T11:15:00.000-04:00

Dining on the boardwalk.

Earlier this summer I was invited by Bombora in Ocean City, MD to join them as their guest for the evening to check out and blog about their new restaurant on the downtown boardwalk. After an August weekend spent in Rehoboth and Dewey beaches, I made the drive down south to take them up on their offer.

Blue crab guacamole with plantain chips.

Bombora offers a touch of affordable and modern class to a destination that skew heavily towards the more old-fashioned side of the spectrum, a touch of elegance in a sea of tackiness and chaos. White awnings and gas lamps, wooden ostriches guarding the entrance, and the font on the sign of the Beach Plaza Hotel which the restaurant anchors all speak more to Miami chic and Art Deco aesthetics than OC gaudiness.

Even the bread plate is thoughtful.

The menu, Latin-Asian fusion created by chef Arturo Paz, falls in line with the South Beach ethos. The fusion concept has seen its day. But it’s cutting edge for Ocean City, where prime rib, fried seafood platters, crab bushels, and the Jonah & the Whale dinner buffet rain supreme.

Flatbreads add a nice diversion

Emphasizing seafood as a menu that fronts the ocean should, Bombora offers small plates and a small selection of flatbreads in the $8-$11 range, entrees mostly in the low $20s, an a la carte breakfast, and a daily happy hour with $3 drinks and half price small plates offered in the elegant bar and lounge or the oceanfront porch. A woman, leaving the 4-7pm portion, confirms with her server that it starts up again from 9-12.

A Trio of ceviches

Blue crab guacamole is an obvious attention grabber and if you miss it on the menu, you’ll notice the sundae cup it’s served in being brought to another table, with plantain chips spilling over the dish like bananas would from a split. The mound of crab meat over a scoop of guacamole is a winner. A tuna tartar seems like it will be overwhelmed by the wonton chips they’re served with, the presentation evoking a Japanese pagoda. But the Thai green curry sauce the fish is prepared with shines through, making a very powerful canapé. A trio of ceviches is highlighted by a sweet marinade for the grouper. A tower of vine ripe tomatoes and buffalo mozzarella is stacked like a house of dominos, is the most fascinating way I’ve ever seen this commonplace yet always pleasing dish put together.

Our waiter, passionate himself about fine dining in OC with dreams of opening his own tapas and martini bar some day, raves about the shitaki pot stickers and calamari two ways (both of them asian ways) and explains that the crab cake sliders are done with a Puerto Rican flair in the spirit of the chef.

Salmon tops a carrot-ginger emulsion.

A whole fried yellowtail snapper on the large plates portion of the menu is another attention grabber, the whole fish, head on, crispy and twisted around a large plate ready to be torn apart. Skirt steak, marinated in the juice of sour oranges and served with a chimichurri has a great char grilled taste to it. A pan seared salmon pairs well with a carrot ginger emulsion, though the fish was cooked a little more than I would like. A sautéed shrimp fettucine, priced to sell at a very reasonable $16, is also recommended.

Sour orange marinated skirt steak (appetizer portion).

Most of the cocktails, including some with interesting twists on how to use Jameson whiskey, are on the very sweet side. The wine list is a better place to focus with bottles buyable for as low as $20. Coffee to close out the meal is served in a French press, a nice touch.

The whole package makes for a worthwhile meal at prices that would be much higher if the restaurant were in Washington, a local crabshack, or the even the massive Phillips Seafood restaurants on the island. In fact, though you would never be able to tell if you didn’t know, Phillips owns and operates Bombora and the Beach Plaza Hotel, a couple of boutique enterprises among a small handful in the chain’s portfolio. The space used to be a Phillips restaurant on the boardwalk. Paz came in to revamp the restaurant and upgrade the accommodations.

The result is a dining experience that does not feel at all corporate. And there is lots of taste and value to be had. Plus the place is on the boardwalk. At 13^th street, it’s a little further north than the chaotic heart of the downtown span. Walk past the t-shirt shops water ice stands, and oddities museums. Ignore the girl to your right handing out flyers for the souvenier store below. And you'll find a gem of an option for Ocean City whether for an elegant yet affordable meal, $20 bottle of wine, or $3 beer and small plates on the boardwalk patio. Or perhaps all three.

Dinner at Kevin Gillespie's Woodfire Grill

2010-02-28T21:23:00.000-05:00

On location - Atlanta, GA

A few weeks back I found myself in Atlanta with the chance to eat at Woodfire Grill, the restaurant of Top Chef Season 6 finalist Kevin Gillespie. North of the city center in the Piedmont Heights neighborhood of ATL, the restaurant is a bit off of the beaten path and if you're visiting not too accessible without a car. It's about a $15 cab ride from the city center or you can take the 37 bus from the North Ave. or Lindbergh MARTA Stations. You'll enter a long, unassuming, bar area that leads to a narrow dining room. I was seated a few tables from Kevin who was firing entrees from a kitchen in the dining room. The full kitchen is off to the right.

The slow food menu changes often. The website says daily, though the posted and dated February 23 is nearly identical to the one that I ordered from a month ago. Gillespie features seasonal, local, and/or sustainable foods for the menu and is heavy on fire-roasting and grilling meats in the dining room kitchen. And it won't surprise any Top Chef fans that he's heavy on what he bills as simple presentations; there's no molecular bells and whistles. But most dishes do have 4-6 accompaniments in the descriptions: cornbread puree, duxelle of roasted mushrooms, black pepper caramel, braised peanut and pickled cherry relish. That's not exactly amateur flair, Michael Voltaggio. It's simple accentuated with complexity and elegance.

Diners have the choice of a 3 or 5 fixed courses or a la carte dining. At the restaurants with 2 college friends, we opted to go the a la carte route. That way, for about the same price as the 5 course prix fixe where we would all be getting the same dish, we could basically order the entire menu. What we got...

One of the better dishes of the evening was a creamy sunchoke carnaroli risiotto. Roasted apples top the dish with crispy twigs of fried sunchokes at the front. Pictured is a doubled order.

Duo of wild Washington state steelhead. The two ways is a tartare and a sashimi. The fact that it is steelhead and not tuna (which you would be unlikely to ever find here) entices you in. It's a mild fish, with the slices accentuated with dill and grapefruit. When asked about all of the components, the server pulls out a napkin where he's listed the 26 ingredients of the dish.

Duck breast (wood grilled sonoma artisan). A generous portion cooked perfectly. The black eyed peas, endives, duck cracklins, and pickled squash must be under there somewhere!

Strip loin (wood grilled Painted Hills). A nice cut of beef, though it was the black olive powder on the right that was the star of the show.

Pork loin (wood grilled berkshire). Gillespie shows his love of all things pig with the coca-cola glazed country ham underneath the loin.

There are four veg side options, $6 each, which are well worth tacking onto the meal. My favorite was the roasted local sunchokes (rear right) with zaatar, mint, and pomegranate molasses. Brussels sprouts are pictured in the front. I wished I could have tried Kevin's kale on the Natalie Portman vegan episode, but unfortuntely smokey greens weren't on the menu when I visited Woodfire. Cooked with benton's bacon and smoked pork broth, however, they would not be for Natalie.

Cocoa nib doughnuts with coconut ice cream. The plate is also dotted with passion fruit caramel around the doughnuts, cocoa nibs, and passion glass atop the ice cream. Brittany Emerson's desserts are between $8 and $9. You can also sip on a port or dessert wine flight, 3 for $14.

Leonsis Discusses the Business of Happiness

2010-02-26T17:00:00.007-05:00

This is normally a food blog (when I post here instead of DCist). But here is a post about Ted Leonsis' new book and a book talk that he held on Wednesday, February 24...

According to Ted Leonsis, the concept of community is a central component of happiness. That means being an active participant across multiple communities, finding ways to intertwine those communities, and giving back to the community. As the owner of the Washington Capitals, it’s not that he wants to win the Stanley Cup per se says (though he does). It’s that he sees what the success of the team can do for the city and its fans. When he thinks of wins by the Jets and Mets when he was growing up in New York in the ‘60s, he remembers sharing the moment with his father and he thinks of the lasting memories a Caps championship would create for a new generation of families. He chokes up while relaying a story about a man who stayed connected with his son while posted in Iraq by video chatting with him daily about the Caps.

Thus it was fitting for Leonsis to deliver a talk promoting his new book, The Business of Happiness, on Wednesday night at the Sixth and I Historic Synagogue. The late Abe Pollin, business partner of Leonsis, famously helped save the synagogue building from being turned into a nightclub in 2002, paving the way to creating a thriving Jewish and cultural community in downtown Washington. Leonsis, who is now negotiating with the Pollin estate to purchase the majority share of the Wizards and the Verizon Center, described Pollin as a man who embodied the spirit of giving back to the community.

Leonsis himself would have liked to have been home with his wife that night watching his star player Alex Ovechkin and Russia take on Canada in Olympic hockey. But he was happier being at 6th and I promoting his book and “creating another community.”

And so Leonsis recounted his early business successes, a near plane crash, a realization that he wasn’t truly happy, and his decision to write down a life plan of 101 personal and professional goals to achieve happiness. He wrote goals in 7 categories. There’s family and financial matters. Possessions like owning a beach and a great collection of watches. Charitable giving. Sporting goals like owning a team and winning a championship, playing several elite golf courses, and going one-on-one against Michael Jordan. Sixteen trips around the world. Miscellaneous “stuff” like going to the Oscars, swimming with sharks, and advising a foreign government.

After you get over wishing that you had Leonsis’ life, that you could accomplish a fraction just a couple of the things he has on his personal list, you’re left with no choice but to admire the guy. Yeah, he’s got more money than God; he’s already checked off #14 from his list, net worth of one hundred million dollars after taxes and is working on #15 ($100 billion). Making money off the Capitals and winning a championship will make him happy, but the way his team can bring the city closer together makes him more happy. Blogging, interacting with fans, and inviting readers of his book to e-mail him personally to let him know what they thought makes him happy. Making award winning movies is part of his bucket list. He accomplished that by becoming a “filmanthropist” making documentaries with purpose and launching a website that links charitable giving with independent films and provides a forum for exposure for small film makers.

Putting such goals to paper is a great start to completing some of them. You may not want to be as ambitious as Leonsis with your list. If you want to know what’s on that list, it’s published in the back of the new book. Or you can check it out here.

J&G Steakhouse Restaurant Week Menus

2010-01-08T11:01:00.002-05:00

I'm excited about trying J&G Steakhouse during Restaurant Week, the Jean-Georges Vongerichten's newly opened restaurant in DC that has won praise from Tom Sietsema and Todd Kliman. They are doing lunch and dinner. Menus aren't posted on their website, but when I called, they were happy to e-mail them to me. Uh, why not just put them on your website! But looks good, many options, and from their regular menu.

Lunch:

Salmon Tartare, Ginger Dressing, Fresh Radish

Or

Crispy Calamari, Pickled Chilies, Yuzu Dip

Or

Arugula and Boston Lettuce, Fines Herbes, Mustard Vinaigrette

Or

Creamy Tomato Soup, Cheddar, Sourdough and Basil

****

Slowly Cooked Salmon, Mashed Potatoes, Truffle Vinaigrette

Or

Grilled Chicken Sandwich, Chipotle Mayonnaise

Or

Fried Haddock Sandwich, Black Olive Tartar Sauce

Or

J&G Cheeseburger

Or

Hanger Steak, Mashed Potatoes, J&G Steak Sauce

****

Green Apple Crisp, Cinnamon Ice Cream

Or

Crème Fraîche Cheesecake, Glazed Figs, Concord Grape Sorbet

Or

Ice Cream and Sorbet

$20.10

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Dinner

Salmon Tartare, Ginger Dressing, Fresh Radish

Or

Rice Cracker Crusted Tuna, Citrus-Chili Sauce

Or

Butternut Squash Soup, Wild Mushrooms

Or

Parmesan Risotto, Fall Mushrooms, Herbs

****

Roasted Golden Tilefish, Glazed Mushrooms, Poblano and Dill

Or

Seared Cod, Scallion-Chili Sauce, Basil and Celery

Or

Parmesan Crusted Organic Chicken, Artichokes, Lemon-Basil Butter

Or

6 oz Petite Filet, Mashed Potatoes, J&G Steak Sauce

****

Green Apple Crisp, Cinnamon Ice Cream

Or

Crème Fraîche Cheesecake, Glazed Figs, Concord Grape Sorbet

Or

Pot de Crème, Liquid Caramel

Or

Ice Cream and Sorbet

$35.10

Top Chef Finale (one of the brothers didn't win)

2009-12-11T17:16:00.007-05:00

It sort of had to come down to this. Top Chef season six started with 17 chefs and one big sibling rivalry. Local-fave Bryan Voltaggio and his younger brother Michael quickly and clearly established themselves as two of the best chefs on the reality show competition, as well as a favorite story line. Their impressive resumes and complementary applications surely left casting directors and producers salivating. Their fancy techniques were similar, but played out quite differently in the kitchen, highlighting polar opposite though perhaps equally intense personalities. Bryan, the even-keeled brother, brought a composed and cautious approach to his trade. Younger brother Michael was at times conniving and often rubbed his brother and other contestants the wrong way. He and Bryan both had finesse, but his creative flair almost always landed him in the top tier of each week’s elimination challenge judges. It was not a surprise that the two were amongst the final three standing for this season’s Top Chef title.

Still, the smart money was on Atlanta-based chef Kevin Gillespie, whose simple dishes with complex flavors often edged out the wizardry of the Voltaggios. Bryan and Michael said their mom was probably pulling for Kevin last night—easier on the heart strings to have two runner-up sons than a winner and a loser. But Kevin’s simplicity finally caught up to him. He shook slightly as Padma called his name—dramatic pause—to tell him he wasn’t Top Chef. And then there were two.

Some DCist commenters, discussing the decision on DCist’s morning post on the just launched Voltaggio website, thought that Kevin was robbed, while others argued that he did himself in with a tired dessert choice. A third group, unsurprisingly, took the discussion down the path of junkpunches, moaning vulvas, and Molly. While odds may have been with Kevin going into the evening who was a popular fan favorite, it’s hard to say that he was upset or robbed last night. As Bryan and Kevin frequently (and not so much a cockier Michael) said, all three chefs were of high caliber and any of them were capable of winning. But Kevin’s conception of his dishes did him in. He made a decent pork belly entrée with caramelized ham jus, but head judge Tom Colicchio said it needed to be paired with a roasted pork to be successful. His bacony roasted banana needed the banana “two-ways” treatment to be deemed worthy; Kevin only had one treatment and it was too simple. On the other hand, the judges praised Kevin all season for his simple dishes with complex flavors. In the finale, apparently they wanted complex dishes with complex flavors. And yeah, perhaps they didn’t mind the chance to have Bryan and Michael as the last two standing.

Bryan, who watched the finale at his Frederick restaurant Volt at a private party hosted by the City of Frederick, was true to himself to the end. In describing his strategy, he says “I wouldn’t say I’m playing it safe. I’m playing it smart.” Judges said that his sous vide rockfish was the best cooked of the “mystery box” fish dishes but needed more seasoning and didn’t inspire. His venison was prepared perfectly and each vegetable side was prepared two ways. Wouldn’t you guess…Tom loved that! Bryan seemed to pour cheesecake rounds out of a vat of liquid nitrogen and his lauded as the most subtle, restrained, and sophisticated of the desserts. And when Michael needed a 9-volt battery for some thermal doohickey, of course Bryan had one lying around that he was happy to share. When criticized by Brit critic Toby Hall as displaying restraint as his hallmark, Bryan replies that he doesn’t see that as a fault and felt that everything he cooked underscored his philosophy.

Michael is true to himself too. When talking about Jennifer going home the challenge before, he says that it sucks that it wasn’t Bryan instead. When asked about why they should be named Top Chef, Bryan says it should be him because he did what meant the most to him, which was to express his cuisine. In response to the same question, Michael says he just doesn’t want Bryan to win. And we’d say that’s just partly tongue in cheek. Michael’s mystery box course, where where each chef had to create their own dish using the same ingredients, is a clear favorite with a butter poached rockfish glazed with dashi, tomato-kombu sauce poached crab, and sweet and sour squash salad with Meyer lemon. For a squab course with “real and fake mushrooms,” he goes for refined technique in a rustic way, and the dish is deemed excellent though slightly derided for being a bit gimmicky. He thinks he would have clinched the night if he hadn’t overcooked his chocolate coulant.

But the dry cake doesn’t end up costing him. “Michael,” insert dramatic pause from Padma and knowing, defeated glance from Bryan that just looks like all of his other glances. “You are top chef.” The brothers’ hand shake turns into a long embrace. A crying mother Voltaggio comes out from behind the scenes to hug Michael while over his shoulder lending a consolatory stare into her eldest son’s eyes. Michael breaks down and the judges tear.

It seems not too many viewers were pulling for Michael to win, especially in these parts where Bryan reigned as the hometown favorite and the affable, jolly, bearded Kevin equally won hearts. But it’s hard to dispute the decision. Kevin himself knew that he hadn’t done enough to win. Bryan proved himself as an always reliable talent and an emerged force to be reckoned with in the culinary world. Michael’s cooking is a high risk, high reward proposition. He seemed to thrive on competition and besting his brother and everyone else. When he’s on, he dazzles, and he’s usually on. Thus, high reward achieved. It was a season that definitely raised the bar in terms of the quality of the chefs competing.

Parting words from our local protagonist? “I set out to win the whole thing, so coming in second place, that’s tough. But I’m proud to see my little brother win. I mean obviously it was against me but rather him than anyone else,” said Bryan, mature and naturally gracious in defeat. And that’s certainly not the last word from Bryan. You can now join him and Michael in their online community of course! Or head up to Volt for dinner…they can probably fit you in within a year or two. Congrats to Bryan, Kevin, and Top Chef Michael Voltaggio.

Check out my work on DCist

2009-12-11T17:06:00.004-05:00

Haven't posted here for over a year, as when I write, I'm writing for DCist for the most part. Check out my work there here. But I'll make some use of this, my original blog for some additional posts and link. I've had fun covering lots of food stories including Top Chef over the past year. Check out interviews I've done with the Washington area contestants and other coverage.

Carla Hall interview.

Carla Hall finale party.

Mike Isabella interview.

Bryan Voltaggio interview.

And I'll be posting my take on the season 6 Top Chef finale momentarily.

Taste of the Nation Recruitment Happy Hour at Vidalia

2008-11-07T11:30:00.002-05:00

Vidalia to Host Taste of the Nation Recruitment Happy Hour

In preparation for the 21st annual Taste of the Nation® event in March 2009, the DC Taste of the Nation Volunteer Committee invites all DC foodies to lend a helping hand.

Alongside Chef Chair R.J. Cooper, Chef de Cuisine of Vidalia, the volunteer committee seeks new members to become involved in the planning process of this highly anticipated culinary event. On Monday, November 10th, 2008 from 6-8 pm, Vidalia's acclaimed wine-tasting happy hour will host a special recruitment event, offering more than a flight of wine.

Learn more about how to become an active member in the fight against childhood hunger while sipping and munching on tasty treats, courtesy of Vidalia's dedication to the cause. Feel free to bring along any guests who may be interested in further involvement with the DC TON Committee.

We look forward to seeing you there!To learn more about this event, please contact Judith Mandel at judith@2911productions.com or 703-549-0585.

Taste of Arlington, May 18 dinner

2008-05-23T15:35:00.001-04:00

Though Taste of Arlington’s official end time was 7:30, I wasn’t surprised to find slim pickings when I arrived at half past six. My targets—Talulla, Willow, and Hank’s Oyster Bar—were long departed. In fact, so little remained that the longest line was at the Sunrise Assisted Living Center Dining Room tent. They were serving Sunrise Santa Fe Chicken Wraps and Parmesan Tuscan Chicken Wraps. One ticket got you two (tickets were $2 each)…what a deal! I still decided to hold off on Sunrise until I visit Grandma next month at the Mt. Vernon NY Sunrise facility. I’m always enticed by the daily dessert special posted on the menu by the entrance. One day the special will be “brownies.” The next? “Peaches in syrup.” Such innovations! Ah, I digress.

So I passed on the Sunrise wraps and headed for Carlyle, starting my evening off with a breaded, tasty crab cake sandwich. Hard Times Café dished me up a bowl of sweet Cincinnati Chili with a spoonful of cheese and chopped onions on top. Two ways, Ohioans? Rockland’s BBQ piled their pulled pork sandwich high, perhaps compensating for the fact that they ran out of buns by providing extra meat. Good deal!

I finished things off at Sangam. The independent Indian restaurant played well the part of Best of the Best of the festival, a prize they had been awarded that day for the third year running. Perhaps the fare they had since run out of was more noteworthy, because the timid channa masala I sampled at the end of the festival was far from award winning. Or perhaps they win the hearts of festival goers with charm before food. Their owner stood by their tent, microphone in hand, decked out in suit and tie, waving his award, and giving his thanks to everyone for choosing his restaurant as the winner…over and over again.

But the proud papa was barely audible, partly due to the accent and mumbling, and partly due to the amped up music on the festival stage, which made his speech all the more futile, and amusing. Local cover band Gonzo’s Nose was rocking out for an eclectic end of the day crowd. A cute trio of 30-somethings grooved at the front of the stage. A tattoo chested rico suave worked in to dance with them, as did a long bearded gentleman, delighted for the chance to take one by the hand and turn them under his arm. Another guy was content to play his air guitar through every song…strumming with his left hand. Very unique style! The dancing was entertaining. Then I noticed the sign announcing that the festival benefits Community Residences, a non-profit that “enables individuals with a wide range of disabilities to live as independently as possible.” Then I felt touched. Own that inverted air guitar!

La Tasca took second place. I didn’t see what they were serving, but it was probably the garlic shrimp on a tortilla chip they can’t seem to show up without. Caribbean Breeze, purveyor of Nuevo Latin cuisine, took third with a crispy suckling pig dish. Carlyle was the proud People’s Choice winner. That’ll happen when you serve $2 crab cakes in these parts.

Taste of Wheaton, May 18 lunch

2008-05-23T15:34:00.001-04:00

A chunk of Peruvian rotisserie chicken with yucca from Crisp & Juicy. I guess this would be the 1/8 chicken meal—a deal at $1. The moist, flavorful bird could more than stand up to my local fave El Pollo Rico.

The Royal Mile Pub ladled out a rich shrimp bisque, perfect for the rainy day. However, the bits of shrimp, perhaps from being pre-frozen then overboiled, were crumbly.

Got my meat-on-a-stick fix at Saigonese, along with a plate of lemongrass chicken. The fiery red broth the chicken sat in didn’t translate into an interesting dish. It was bland. And though they had a sign proclaiming they made the best grilled beef, pork, and chicken around, my beef skewer tasted, well, probably just about the same as most any other vendor’s meat beef on a stick would taste.

Got my Mexican fix with a beef fajita from Umberto’s. Passed on all of the Salvadorian tents. Some food works at a fair. Some items, like pupusas, are better bought hot off the griddle than pre-cooked and warming in the tin foil. And with an everyday price of around $1.50, getting a reheated one at the festival price of $1 would be no bargain.

Lucia’s kept a long line throughout the day, though that may just have been because the two women working the tent moved slowly and were using a microwave to warm it everything up instead of keeping their dishes over heat. They still produced a perfect meatball with a couple of bread slices to sop up the marinara remaining in my bowl.

I didn’t want to bother standing in the Supporn Thai line, always the longest at Taste of Wheaton. They may be the most highly regarded restaurant participating and these days, everyone now loves Thai food, and their piles of Pad Thai, spring rolls, and white pepper chicken wings were inviting. I took the express route, waltzing to the end of the line to pick up a cloyingly sweet [in a good way] cup of Thai iced tea, brick red in color.

Saint Sophia's Greek Festival

2008-05-19T22:42:00.016-04:00

The people watching was grand. The music and dancing had had your big fat Greek wedding written all over it. And the Saturday weather was perfect. But the sun also meant that the lines were unbearable and the grub was more fast food quality than home-style cooking. On Saturday evening there was a 45-minute wait [at least] to get your dinner. Though the smells were irresistible, the meal surely was not worth the line. The meat on my gyro sandwich was tasty but instead of being in the form of long, inch wide strips, it was in small pieces as it crumbled under the knife that cut it off the spit. The few morsels that there were sat buried under the handful of lettuce, tomatoes, feta, and tzatziki on the slightly warmed and not homemade pita. The whole thing was worth far less than the $9 charged for it. With this many people, the festival is doing its best too feed the masses. But festivals (including this one in perhaps more relaxed years past) often feature the skills of the church’s members bringing the tastes of their mother’s kitchens from the old world to their church’s front lawn. Not so this time—at least not for my gyro.

There weren’t any $20 lamb dinners to be had that evening; the whole lambs—six in all— were done for the day. But the whole trip was worth it for the pictures I got of them prepping a whole new set for the Sunday spits. The whole process (and the subsequent pictures) are not for vegetarians or the squeamish. But unsurprisingly, roasting a whole lamb is a pretty involved process, and that’s before it gets anywhere near the fire. What would you need to know to get on the “Lamb on a Spit Crew?”

The animal sure is fresh. The head makes you realize that the carcass in front of you was a living creature yesterday. And it’s really gory! The lamb also gets a garlic and herb rub down.

The spit goes in the rear, through the body and neck, and back out through the mouth. Ouch!

Assembly needed…bring out the tools! Securing the lamb on the rod requires a power drill, nuts and bolts, wires, pliers…

…and a needle and thread. Throw in some more garlic and spices, add a few halved lemons, and sew that sucker back up like a busted hem line!

Check out my Contributing Witer Post on DCist!

2008-05-16T16:35:00.002-04:00

I was recently invited to become a contributing writer on DCist to the Food & Drink section. And today my first piece was posted. I took on the job of writing The Weekly Feed this Friday. It focuses on a compilation of all the awesome food festivals going on in the area this weekend along with some small bites (the standard format).

For the article and the roasting lamb picture, head over to www.DCist.com. But the text is also below.

May 16, 2008The Weekly Feed: Meat on a Stick Edition
Written by DCist contributor Josh Novikoff

Dish of the Week:Whole Roasted Lamb
For many Washingtonians, the bloom of the cherry blossoms signals the changing of the seasons. But for outdoor food fans, nothing says spring quite like a weekend full of outdoor food festivals. The whiff of grilled pork, charcoal, and butane filling the air, styrofoam plates piled high with pad thai, pupusas, and eggplant parmesan; you can walk, eat, and drink your way clear into next week.

Taste of Arlington expects to see 12,000 people descend on Ballston this Sunday to sample dishes from 45 restaurants. Advance ticket sales ended today, but you can buy tickets for $2 a pop at the festival. Chains and corporate eateries will abound, but be sure to catch local gems like Willow, Tallula, the new Alexandria outpost of Hank’s Oyster Bar, and last year’s "Best of the Best" winner, Sangam Restaurant.

Also Sunday, Taste of Wheaton promises a more likely venue to get your meat on a stick fix. The festival celebrates the bounty of bargain ethnic joints that have found a home in Wheaton, where the portion sizes are generous and cost a mere $1 each. Salvadoran restaurants dominate the landscape, with a healthy amount of Vietnamese, Chinese, Italian, American, and Thai spots peppered in. Start off in Wheaton, where the festival runs from 11-5 p.m., then roll yourself down to Arlington where a 7:30 p.m. end time gives your eyes and stomach plenty of time to recover and find dinner.

And if you’re not such a fan of meat on a stick, how about lamb on a spit? The annual Greek Festival at Saint Sophia Greek Orthodox Cathedral runs from noon - 9 p.m. all weekend. You can get your fill of souvlaki, feta burgers, loukoumades, baklava, and more starting today. But whole roasted lamb is Saturday and Sunday only.

Those looking for “an American craft beer & food experience” can try to get in to SAVOR, taking place this weekend downtown at the Mellon Auditorium. But tickets were only available in advance and all 700 tickets per session are sold out. Check craig to try to score last minute tickets. But if scalped tickets and neighborhood festivals aren’t your thing, tickets are still available for the Food & Wine Festival going on all weekend at the National Harbor. A weekend long clambake, an opening demonstration by Michel Richard, and an open flame cast-iron cook-off headline the event, which also features presenting chefs, restaurants, and lecturers, expert panels, and wine tastings galore.

And finally, those out of town this weekend need not miss out on all the fun. Celebrating ten years in the neighborhood, the Verizon Center hosts its Taste of Ten Luncheon on Wednesday from 12 - 2 p.m. A $10 entrance donation will allow you to taste six of the 29 participating establishments. Proceeds benefit the Washington Sports & Entertainment Charities. Can’t afford a meal at The Source? Here’s a chance to taste what Scott Drewno is cooking up in the Newseum - for $1.66! At that price, it may be worth using a few of your tickets for samples from Wolfgang’s new eatery. Just save room for Jaleo, Matchbox, Morton’s, and Zaytinya.

Small Bites

Musical Coffeehouse Chairs
Cozy coffee shop 14U is shuttered with a sign on their door “awaiting new management.” But 14th And You is suspicious whether they're ever reopening. Filling the void just one block south is Café Collage, an Ethiopian coffee house in a residential space on T Street, which had temporarily closed. Lucky for java fans! Unlucky for T Street residents? Eastern market coffee fans may be happy to know that the former Murky space won't be straying too far from the family. Former Murky manager Ryan Jensen has acquired the lease for the storefront and plans to reopen under the name Peregrine Espresso.

Sushi and Tatertots
Ever had a hankering for sushi with a side of tater tots (with special tot sauce). No? Well, Sticky Rice DC is betting they can make you come around. The American/Pan-Asian eatery promises a “charming atmosphere and bad attitude”—and inexpensive prices to boot. They will be the latest business to set up shop on H Street NE when they open—reportedly on Tuesday, May 20. Vegetarians can dine on Tofu Max, The Hot Hippy, and G.I. Jane. Frozen Tropics has more info, pictures, and specials.

Death by Chocolate
Co Co. Sala, D.C.’s boldest entry yet in the world of dessert dining, is now open for business in Penn Quarter. It’s a chocolate lounge and, while twelve savory small bites top the menu, the experience is really about the Monde Du Chocolat. Nisha Sidhu, formerly of 2941 in Falls Church, has created four sets of chocolate tasting menus, each with elixir pairings. And don’t forget the hot and frozen chocolate flights.

Food Festivals and Luncheon's Galore

2008-05-15T12:04:00.002-04:00

Food festivals I plan on checking out this weekend:

Greek Festival at Saint Sophia's Greek Orthodox Church for lunch on Saturday...

Taste of Wheaton for lunch on Sunday...

and Taste of Arlington for dinner!

And if feasting all weekend wasn't enough, another food festival for lunch on Wednesday at the Verizon Center! It's unclear whether or not the "Taste of Ten" luncheon will take place in the arena or on Abe Pollin Way (7th and F Street NW). But what is clear is that for $10, you get to choose 6 participating restaurants to grab a nosh from, and the cream of the crop of Penn Quarter is on the list! Info isn't posted well anywhere. I got the info from an e-mail as a Capitals and Wizards ticket buyer. So here's the 411 below. I put my projected Pick 6 in bold!

Verizon Center "Taste of Ten" Luncheon Featuring 29 Area Restaurants & Local Celebrities

Verizon Center - F Street Entrance

Wednesday, May 21 from 12noon - 2pm

Tickets for the Luncheon are $10* with proceeds benefiting Washington Sports & Entertainment charitites.

Verizon Center is capping-off its 10th anniversary campaign with a "Taste of Ten" luncheon at the Verizon Center on Wednesday, May 21 from 12noon – 2:00 p.m.

The "Taste of Ten" luncheon will take place on the main concourse of Verizon Center. Local celebrities will be in attendance as 29 area restaurants will be serving lunch on the main concourse of Verizon Center including District Chop House, Legal Seafood, Tony Chang's, Matchbox, Morton's, Clyde's, The Greene Turtle, and Zola, as well as arena concessionaires Aramark and Levy Restaurants. All members of the community are invited to celebrate ten great years of sports and entertainment in the heart of downtown Washington with music, food and fun on Abe Pollin Way. Tickets for the luncheon are $10* with proceeds benefiting Washington Sports & Entertainment charities.

Participating Restaurants: Aramark, B. Smith's, Capital Q, Chipotle, Chop't, Clyde's, Coca-Cola, Dunkin' Donuts, Gifford's Ice Cream, Greene Turtle, Hard Rock Cafe, Jaleo, Legal Sea Foods, Levy Restaurants, Lucky Stike, Mamma Lucia, Matchbox Vintage Pizza Bistro, McCormick & Schmick's Seafood Restaurant, McDonald's, Morton's, Rosa Mexicano, Ruth's Chris Steak House, Crown Food, The Source, District Chophouse & Brewery, Tony Cheng's Seafood Restaurant and Mongolian Barbecue, Zayinya, Zola. *$10 Ticket Includes a sampling of up to 6 restaurants

Taste of the Nation is on Monday, March 24th!

2008-03-21T16:07:00.002-04:00

This is the second year that I've helped to organize this truly special evening! Sample tastes from 60+ of DC's top chef's and restaurants and imbibe on all the wine you can drink. There's a chocolate bar. A bar chef competition. A live and silent auction. At $85 for General Admission, it's still a bargain of an event. And 100% of ticket sales go to fight childhood hunger in the local community. If you're a DC Foodie, it's the place to be on Monday night!

http://taste.strength.org/site/Clubs?club_id=1078&pg=main

O salty pickle juice, what can you not do!

2008-03-12T11:28:00.005-04:00

Apparantly "Pickles Take to Freezing With Relish!" Thanks, Washington Post! A roller rink operator in Texas realized there is a closet group of pickle brine drinkers out there. His daughter even ate pickle brine ice cubes at camp and started selling them at the rink. It was such a hit that he ran out of the juice and went straight to the nectar, pressing the pickle itself and freezing the juice. What was a roller rink snack has become his life. He now sells approximately 20,000 Pickle Sickles a month across the country! They look like the little flavored ice pops in tubes that kids suck right out of the plastic. I'd venture to say they taste a bit different, however.

The demographic for frozen pickle juice is quite limited--it's adolescents, people over 50, and pregnant women. I don't fall into any of those categories, yet after reading the article I've got an intense craving...a deep desire for frozen pickle juice. And I'm inspired to use the brine now in so many ways.

As a substitute for Gatorade during softball games!

In a dirty martini! Bloody Mary's!

The article also suggests using pickle juice in salads, gazpacho, barbecue sauce, and of course to pickle more cut up vegetables.

Just don't tell the girl with picklephobia!

Otherworldy Ma Po Tofu at Great Wall. The Rest? Not so much.

2008-02-29T15:59:00.013-05:00

The owner of Great Wall Szechuan Restaurant “says that his goal and mission is to present the best Szechuan cuisine to the world,” as quoted in an article printed on the menu. I don’t know about the ‘world’ part. The 14th street storefront, just north of P is the type of place you’d pass by hundreds of time without a second thought. My friends who live blocks away don’t know it's there. But I had noticed a City Paper review in the window and a glowing review on Chowhound, though there’s limited Internet traffic about the place. So after a couple of years of meaning to, I stopped by for takeout one night on my way home.

The Ma Po Tofu ($7.95), is life changing! I became obsessed with the dish after trying it there and after trying multiple renditions up and down the East Coast, it is my favorite by far. The dish is simple yet the taste is one of the most complex I’ve experienced. Dozens of cubes of soft, silky tofu. Green onion. Numbing red chili oil and black bean sauce. For those unfamiliar with the Szechuan peppercorn: it’s also known as the numbing peppercorn. It offers a fiery heat that tickles your tongue. Have a bite then have a sip of water to cool it off and your tongue will tingle like you’ve got a mouth full of lime seltzer. What distinguishes Great Wall’s Ma Po from the others I have is the oil’s harmony with the black bean sauce. Black beans are standard in the preparation, but where I’ve only come across a few beans, the sauce mixes with the peppery sauce here to create a nuanced, muddy red that I’ve not encountered anywhere else. The dish can be ordered with meat or no meat. With no meat, the dish is still a revelation for vegans and could win over the most ardent opponent of bean curd. The meat version reaches another level altogether, both from the specks of pork dotting the tofu, but moreso from a third element, pork fat, creating one of the richer sauces you’ll ever taste.

I usually can't ever get past ordering it the Ma Po Tofu, so I’m glad when a dining companion I’ve brought wants some shrimp. Don't let the name Shrimp Szechuan ($9.95) fool you. As it says on the menu, the shrimp is served in a preparation of Tomato Sauce with Onions. Do they even eat tomatoes in China? If they do it’s news to me. The sweet sauce has the consistency of ketchup and is only slightly thinner. It’s unsophisticated, un-Chinese, though edible and still enjoyable. And it’s right at home on the menu of mostly Americanized Chinese food.

While the Shrimp Szechuan is upfront about its American heritage, I expect more from the Crispy Chicken Szechuan Style ($9.95) on the House Specialties section. It's a dish common to the cuisine, and the last rendition I had, at Tasty China in Marietta, was full on flavor and spice. This version should have been sent back to the kitchen. Crispy? Slightly. Heat? Non-existent. It was deep fried chicken chunks with standard cloying Chinese sweet sauce. Nothing Szechuan about it. It's marked with a chili pepper on the menu, so I ask the waitress if I had ordered right. Was it the Szechuan chicken? Indeed it was she said. But it's served without a semblance of spice. There's nothing to it. I've heard of restaurants scaling things back for perceived American tastes. But this dish didn't even come close. Not a single pepper. C'mon!

Steamed Pork Dumplings ($3.50 for 4) are standard fare but do the trick. Opt for them over the Vegetable version that contain only a wrinkly peas and cubed carrot blend, the same that came with my shrimp dish.

There’s the failure to serve acceptable rice, which is hard to understand. The bowls are far from fresh, clumpy and seemingly cooked long ago and kept warm or reheated. It’s not a one time occurrence and is a problem encountered by several other web reviews I’ve found, and the indifference this staple is off-putting.

In my last trip there I head back to the Ma La menu. To me, that's not just the safe bet, but really the only bet. But instead of sticking with the tofu, I give the Ma La cold noodles a try. Another mistake. Al dente Asian noodles? No, just old and stale.

This rice, ketchupy sauces, frozen peas, and stale noodles seem at odds with the goal and mission to present the best to the world. But the Ma Po Tofu? Otherwoldly.

Great Wall Szechuan House
1527 14th Street NW
Washington, DC 20005
(202)-797-8888

I Am Delicious

2008-02-25T23:26:00.004-05:00

Have been getting lots of good feedback from friends about my Marietta - Tasty China article. Thanks for reading! The blog post was even given a shout out on the You Are Delicious blog along with Bitten from the New York Times and A Mighty Appetite from WaPo. Pretty good company!

And the link in the same post to the the Maury Povich picklephobia clip on You Tube could only be from it being the gchat status of Yours Truly!

You Are Delicious is a good place to read about issues in sustainable eating--read vegan cooking and other interesting tidbits all "for a tastier you." And there's the writer's food pictures of a recent trip to China that made me just a wee bit jealous. Can you tell I'm in a China phase!

Also, please note that the Marietta - Tasty China post has been updated as of 2/25. After rereading it, I realized that a few vital paragraphs about Peter Chang, the former chef of Tasty China and veteran of DC chinese, were missing. Check out the updated post.

On the Bus to Tasty China - Marietta, GA

2008-02-19T11:25:00.017-05:00

On Location - Marietta, GA

Something in me revels in traveling the hard way. It’s a potent mix of a sense of adventure, passion for maps and public transportation systems, frugality, self-sufficiency, and wariness of the unscrupulous taxi or shuttle driver. Sure I could land at my destination, fork over $50 or so, and be dropped off at my hotel. But where’s the fun in that? So when traveling to Marietta, GA for work, 20 miles northwest of downtown, far from the reaches of its limited rail system, heading straight for a shared shuttle to my hotel is out of the question. I’m bussing it!

Usually, ground transportation at an airport is straightforward enough. Follow the signs, pay a couple of bucks, and 20 or 30 minutes later you’ve arrived downtown on the cheap. But when you’re not staying downtown? When you’re staying at the Days Inn—Marietta amongst the strip malls of Southern suburbia? In a new town that I don’t know and knows no trains? I recently ventured to figure out as I traveled to the Atlanta area on business and reached the only conclusion possible…I’m bussing it!

Now I did say business mind you! Work was paying and an airport shuttle was certainly allowed. Heck, a rental car would have been authorized. But there I was on the Cobb County DOT website, figuring on poorly marked maps how to save my office $50. After a first look or two it didn’t seem feasible. I started calling shuttle operators to find a best rate. Then I thought to check Greyhound. They had a bus from downtown each hour. But after repeat visits to the site, my convoluted pieces began to come together. MARTA (subway) to Arts Center Station. Then the Cobb County #10 bus would get me within a half mile walk from my destination. Another discovery, the #50 bus goes right to where I need to go and intersects the #10 at the Cumberland Transfer Station! If I catch it, I can avoid walking along desolate South Marietta Parkway and be dropped right where I’m going!

As I touch down at Hartsfield-Jackson, I’m excited about my journey. I tell my plans to a friend I’ll be staying with in Atlanta later that weekend. “You’re crazy,” he exclaims over the phone. “I’ve lived here 4 years and haven’t been on a bus once, let alone a Cobb County bus.” Yeah, you’re talking to a guy who hopped busses all over Cairo where the numerals are different and we can barely communicate. I think I can handle Cobb.

And I execute my plans to a tee with schedules jotted down and Google maps in hand. Train: easy as pie. Bus: there aren’t a whole lot of signs at Arts Center Station, but there’s one bus waiting. The #10, and I run for it! When we finally get going a few minutes later, I pretend to have an air of confidence about me, like I know exactly where I’m going. Well, the truth is I do! But I do feel a bit out of place. Who the hell is this white guy with luggage and a backpack reading the Washington Post, they must be thinking. I put away the Post and reach for the weathered copy of Lolita I'm reading.

My bus is running early. I might make the transfer with the #50! Alas, the #50 pulls away from the Cumberland Transfer Station as my bus pulls in. Couldn’t wait 30 more seconds! There’s not another #50 for an hour. Stay on the #10 and walk the extra distance to my destination. The bus driver explains this to me, but though it’s my first time in the state, I’m well aware of the schedules and intricacies of each route, perhaps more so than the driver. And 20 minutes later, as it starts to rain, under the darkness of night, I disembark in front of the U-Haul center and began my trek. One other person gets off where I do, but a friend is waiting in her car to pick her up. I’m only going .57 miles down the road, and I think about asking them for a lift. But instead I keep walking towards S. Marietta Highway and hang a right.

And if I looked out of place on the bus, I can’t imagine how I must look now. A drifter walking down the highway with a bag slung over my shoulder, and a knapsack on my back. They don’t see this everyday. Damn Yankee! A car has to wait for a pedestrian—me—to cross and it’s 9pm! But I can see a traffic light on the horizon and I know I’m on my home stretch. And nearly two hours after landing, I’m at my destination, which is NOT the Days Inn-Marietta, by the way. Nazareth Shopping Center, an ethnic strip mall at the intersection of S. Marietta and N. Franklin. Tasty China!

…

My plan was to originally head straight to my hotel, but that was before I consulted Chowhound as to whether any noteworthy dinners could be had in Marietta, and Tasty China was the answer.

Back in 2006 in the DC burbs, a man named Peter Chang became a legend on the DC food scene. With a pedigree that included the Chinese Embassy in Washington and Beijing's Dynasty Hotel before that, Chang quicly became known by those in the know as a cuilinary master, albeit one with a wandering wok. His combination of a mastery of the region's numbing cuisine paired with his inventive style dazzled diners at China Star in Fairfax, then TemptAsian by the Landmark Mall. A treasure of Chowhounders and DonRockwellians, it was soon after his March '06 move to China Boy that the WaPo and Washingtonian began to take notice and the mainstream diner began flocking to the unassuming Chinese joint for food that was anything but. Months later he was on the move again and seemingly gone from the area. A true loss...and I never even got to try the place. That autumn surfaced in some random suburb of Atlanta. So much for that. Or so I thought.

That random suburb? Yep, Marietta. My trip to the land of the strip mall? By chance, I had struck food gold.

...

It was certainly no surprise that Chang was long gone from Tasty China. "He left long ago," said my waitress, who doubled as the owner. "That man cannot stay put. Gotta move around." She had no idea where he was. Back to DC, please! Knowing that he was gone before I arrived, I was no less excited to check the place out. The JEDI master (the restaurant discribes Chang as such on an old menu) has taught his apprentice well.

Salt and Pepper Eggplant is a revelation. “Salt and Pepper” meaning deep fried on many Asian menus, you’ll get a heaping plate of what look like breaded steakhouse cut french fries. The starch of the eggplant holds up to the fryer while making more of a nuanced fry than a potato ever could. The salt and spicy pepper makes the strips explosive and addicting.

Fish and cilantro rolls return 6 fried cigars of white fish and the loved or loathed herb. Greasy, thin papers are wrapped around minced white fish, making something that tastes like crunchy fish balls. The fish flavor dominates the cilantro, leaving no need for a dipping sauce, and it’s not served with one.

Dan Dan Noodles here are like Chinese spaghetti. The red chili sauce doesn’t shine past the mushy noodles and the sauce is more oil than chili pepper. I find the same thing when I try the Ma Po Tofu the next day. The red sauce that the dozens of white cubes of bean curd sits in looks ready to numb, but lacks much depth.

Fish with Green Onion is a star of the menu. White, moist fleshy chunks are perfectly fried in a salty, spicy, cumin breading. The blend is a Chang calling card. However, after a few pieces, the dish becomes too overpowering. Too many spices and far too much salt distract from the fish and dries the tongue. I put away a few pieces, but am happy to save the rest for leftovers. There’s only so much of the cumin you can eat in one sitting.
A dish being served with green pepper in a Chinese joint means cuts of the bland bell variety sautéed with chicken or beef. Not so here; Sautéed Green Pepper is one of the most boring sounding and tastiest dishes on the menu. It’s brought out to a table near me but returned to the kitchen. “Did they not order it,” I ask the owner/server, obviously hinting at something. “Oh, it was a mistake,” she replied. “That’s for the staff meal…I’ll bring you one to try.” The peppers are smaller and tastier than a bell pepper, slightly larger and much less fiery than a scotch bonnet. Cooked whole, seeds in, soft and wilting, swimming in a sweet soy marinade, I order a plate full the next time I’m at the restaurant.

I forget that Szechuan Chicken and Beef means deep fried, crispy meat when I order one order of each for a lunch party. The crispiness yields what can be thought of as “popcorn” beef and chicken. The peppercorns and salt are a recurring theme, but the taste is somewhat muted at the table, partly because of the temperature of the dish and partly because of all of the other flavors and heat from everything else. It’s not until I start snacking later that the explosive taste shines through.

A dense circular loaf of sesame bread provides either a foil for the spices on your tongue, or a medium to soak up even more of the sauces remaining on your plate. And if you can take the heat, you won’t want to let a single bite go to waste.

Video of Chang in the kitchen with his peppers (Atlanta Journal Constitution):
http://www.ajc.com/news/mplayer/m/6224

Tasty China

585 Franklin Road
Marietta, GA

(770)-419-9849

Horace & Dickie: Home of the Jumbo Fish Sandwich

2008-02-16T18:29:00.007-05:00

The guys working the counter of Horace & Dickie are happy to banter with you as they deal their wares, mainly fried fillets of whiting by the thousands. “I’m gonna give you four small ones,” one says to the woman behind me on the line. “Why? You don’t like me.” “No, I like you fine,” he replies. Then, glancing over at the tall white guy sticking out like a sore thumb on the line [me], “I don’t like him.”

In jest, perhaps, but if read into, the four words speak volumes on what’s going on at this legendary neighborhood fish fry and the neighborhood that surrounds it. Horace & Dickie lies in the heart of the neighborhood known as H Street Northeast, one of DC’s gentrification capitals. Around the corner from its spartan digs on a 12th street corner sit no less than 5 new bars: Palace of Wonders, The Red and the Black, The Martini Lounge, The Pug, and Granville Moore’s, all part of a redevelopment of the area. They all cater to a mostly white clientele in the traditionally black neighborhood. Folks that look more like me are moving in, and it is changing the face of the place.

But it doesn’t seem to change the face or the size of the line at Horace & Dickies. There’s a line out the door to go with the fishy aroma whaffing from the 4 deep fryers inside. And everyone’s there for the same thing—mammoth portions of fried fish. The centerpiece of the menu is the Four Piece Fish Sandwich ($5.29). Crab cakes, fried shrimp and seafood, and fried chicken are the other mains on the menu, with fries, potato salad and coleslaw, collards, and mac & cheese all available as sides for $1.65.

The line moves fast, partly because with the volume they’re doing, they’re not cooking to order. Baskets of already fried fish, chicken, and fries await. Place your order (and most people go for the Four Piece), choose white or wheat, and the scene plays out. Swath of foil. Two slices of bread. At least 4 fillets plopped on top. The guy at the counter will present your order to you for approval before they wrap it in foil. Gotta make sure you’re getting your fair share! One tartar sauce and one hot sauce come standard. If you want any extra, that’ll be 11 cents, but I find the amount given to be enough.

No counter, no bar stool, no room to eat inside. It’s strictly take out. I find it hard to make it back to my car. The bag is that heavy! And the smell makes you want to tear it open and start eating right away. The serving is mammoth, seemingly well more than 4 pieces. The fish is as white and moist as I’d hoped and the light cornmeal breading lends a slight crunch and flavor to the mild fish. Not a sandwich in the traditional sense of the word, I explore a few different eating methods. Dip a chunk in the tartar sauce. Balance a few pieces on a flimsy slice of the bread. Don’t try to actually put all of the fish between the two slices. It’ll be twice the size of a Dagwood. Because the food is not cooked to order, the batter tends to be a bit soggy, which greatly takes away from what would be an otherwise superlative cheap eat. Nevertheless, I scarf down the whole thing, but the sandwich could be easily shared by 2 hungry people. At Horace & Dickie, you're in for some pretty good fish, but above all, you’re getting quantity.

Horace & Dickie
809 12th Street, NE
Washington, DC 20002

(202)-397-6040

Grand Sichuan House - Brooklyn

2008-02-13T18:28:00.001-05:00

On Location - Bay Ridge, Brooklyn

Grand Sichuan House may be the only bastion of the cuisine in Brooklyn. Yes, there are probably countless joints with the word Szechuan in their name or on their menu. But they’re not numbing their customers with the cuisine’s namesake peppercorns. They’re not serving up ma po or chengdu or chong qing style preparations. Triple Delight, Sesame Beef, and Pork Lo Mein does not a Sichuan kitchen make.

Yet far out in Bay Ridge, removed from Brooklyn Chinatown's 8th avenue, removed from the sophisticated palates of the northern nabes, sits this new venerable eatery and when I’m visiting home in Brooklyn, I’m there every chance I get to work my way through the menu. Lunch and dinner specials, served with fried rice and soup, feature mostly their mainstream Americanized fare. But I do find Ma Po Tofu on the list for $4.99, a benchmark dish for me. I ask for an authentic preparation, not wanting a dumbed down version; the menu offers to modify spices to suit tastes, but I want it tarted up, not down. I can notice the extra grinds of pepper on top. The sauce is a little thicker than I’m used to and the pepper is enough to make me tear. On another visit, the broth of a huge bowl of sour cabbage and bean curd soup ($3.95) is tart and addicting, and enough for several portions worth. Dan Dan Noodles ($3.95) are among the best I’ve had, specks of meat adding depth to the simple dish, the fiery broth attacking the tongue, just as with the wontons in red chili oil. The thin yellow wrappers of the Wontons w. Red Oil ($4.25) hold a tasty morsel of meat and the incendiary liquid evoking tears and a suitable numb tongue.

Quality of the entrees have ranged from suitable to well above average. When I try to order Smoked Tea Duck, I’m steered instead to Shredded Duck with Spring Ginger ($13.95)—the same duck but prepared with the ginger as a house specialty. A rich smoky flavor permeates the dark stringy strips of the bird, some lean, some with the fatty skin (a good thing) still clinging to the meat, though some shreds are a little hard to chew. The ginger and greens balance the dish well. What’s more exquisite than the duck is the over-the-top garnish resting next to it on the plate. I’ve seen flowers or scorpions carved out of carrots before. But skewered into a half pumpkin is a veritable bouquet—a beet rose, a carrot tulip, a blossoming leek, a sprig of rosemary, and more—making the plate come alive and make me feel loved by the chef! Does this art come standard or is it the fact that despite living out of town, I’ve become one of their best customers?

Sauteed Pea Shoots w. Fresh Garlic ($10.95) are a great veggie balance to a Chinese meal, but not found on many menus. The shoots are like spinach but with a long stalk and thinner leaves, and they're cooked perfectly here. A Beef and Turnip Hotpot ($9.50) shows up at the table still sizzling and the rich broth and root veggies make for a rib-sticking, soul-warming winter dish. But the beef can be a bit tough to chew, especially with several pieces still attached to strips of tendon. The meat of the Chong Qing Spicy Chicken ($10.95) is greasy and just doesn’t taste that fresh. Yet I’m eager to continue to sample the extensive special menu, laid out in pictures. Several enticing whole fish preparations are slightly more expensive than the rest of the menu at $16.95. I’d be more enticed to try one if a fish tank were visible in the dining room, but the waitress recommends several options. I’ve never seen loofa on a menu, but the Sauteed Sponge Gourd ($8.95) looked delicious on another diners table, part slimy, part avocado.

I just hope I get a chance to try more and continue my patronage. The restaurant has been entirely or mostly empty upon each of my visits and they don’t seem to be making up for it in significant takeout or delivery sales. This wasn’t surprising for my Christmas Eve Chinese meal, but their slow business on a Friday night was disheartening. Perhaps they can get by selling the standard Americanized fare. But I’m not sure that Bay Ridge is the best market for the unique menu they’re offering. Much cheaper to open up shop on 5th Ave and 87th St than 7th Avenue in Park Slope, but I’d venture that there’s more diners and dollars there that are willing and eager to try this ‘new’ type of Chinese food.

Grand Sichuan has a small sushi bar, and the sushi dinner we tried was okay. But I’d always advise saving sushi ordering for a place that specializes in the stuff and sells in high volume. GSH does not, and you’re here for Sichian anyway! Yet the sushi panders to a diner who wants only what they know—sushi, General Tso’s, beef with broccoli—but is unwilling to explore the strengths of the restaurant. And after one local resident leaves to pickup his order, the always friendly waitress tells me he orders the same thing every time: crispy fried pig intestines. Maybe there is hope! And with the closest Sichuan presumably in Flushing, perhaps this humble eatery can draw adventure seekers from the rest of the borough.

Grand Sichuan House

8701 5th Avenue

Brooklyn, NY 11209

(718)-680-8887

Charlie Palmer DC: Restaurant Week 2008

2008-02-10T22:47:00.001-05:00

My evening at Charlie Palmer’s was everything and more than I expected, and I’ve never read a bad review. While Bryan Vottaglio’s food shines, the desserts excel and it’s the service and personal touches that star. And Charlie really wants you to get to know his family. Three gracious hosts wait at the host stand to greet us and send us to two more young women to take our coats. But just like the rest of the involved dinner service, the staff involvement is more welcoming than intrusive. A maitre’d apologizes for our [short] wait, escorts us past the rectangular pond upon which the massive wine cube sits, and switches out the white napkins on our table for black ones—the better to match our outfits. There’s the water girl. The bread guy. The woman who seems to be our waitress but maybe is just the silverware person? The waiter and the busser. There’s sommelier Nadine Brown who chats us up about the wine list and offers us special pours of a grassy, vibrant sparkling wine from New Mexico (to honor Bill Richardson who just dropped out of the presidential race) along with a full bodied, earthy, complex Syrah from Idaho. The wine list is all American and features selections from 47 states. Pacing is impeccable. Yes, there are a lot of people waiting on us. But when the busser clears the dinner plates, there’s no one following on his heels to lay dessert upon us. We’re allowed to linger for a few minutes, enjoying what we ate and anticipating for the next course. No one’s rushing us through our meal and out the door.

A spoonful of salmon tartar, full of flavor, starts things off on the right note. I start with
a marinated grilled octopus salad which includes four of the little guys. There’s no resistance or rubbery texture to the cephalopods; they're cooked perfectly. The strip loin is a restaurant week cut, so I’m not expecting the kitchen’s best. Ordered medium rare, it arrives looking like a seared tuna…the outside is the only part that looks cooked. Just as well for me—I’m okay with rare— though my knife has a little trouble coming through. Either the meat could have been more tender or the knife sharper. The mashed potatoes are smooth, though most noteworthy because they’re purple. On the side, shredded haricots verts add a great crunch and color contrast to the straw mushrooms they’re sautéed with.

Cheesecake is perhaps the silkiest I’ve ever had; the fork glides through it almost like it’s a cheese mouse. The Chocolate and Hazelnut Pave appears so small. It ends up being more than enough; it’s one of the richest and most delicious 1”x4” inch rectangles you’ll ever encounter. And you need not wait for restaurant week to have a value meal at CP. The choices offered during the week are offered year round for lunch only at $20.08 for three courses.

We were thoroughly impressed at this point. I'm not sure if we got the VIP treatment or if CP is this hospitable to all guests. But our bill arrives with a set of 4 complementary confections! A raspberry gelle candy takes the cake. The lemon merengue cookies, dense chocolate truffles, and homemade marshmellow make the plate an embarassment of riches.

The restaurant’s view of the Capitol is what clinches the place as a top flight dining experience. I knew the sommelier, but many reviews mention how eager the staff is to share their grand view with diners. Ask and ye shall be whisked to the top of the United Brotherhood of Carpenters and Joiner’s home to one of the most exquisite rooftop views of the city. Blocks from the Capitol, the view of the dome is unbeatable, a point blank birds eye view, level with the rotunda. It’s a cold January night, but one can imagine the power receptions held up here every night of the spring and summer.

Charlie Palmer Steak
101 Constitution Avenue NW
Washington, DC 20001

http://www.charliepalmer.com/steak_dc/intro.html

Guerrero Food Center

2008-01-22T18:08:00.000-05:00

On Location - Sunset Park, Bklyn

Guerrero Food Center beckoned me as a potential chowhounder’s find on Brooklyn’s 5th Avenue. It’s a small Latino grocery store with a tiny kitchen tucked into the corner, a few plain tables set out next to the grocery shelves, hand written menus under the festive garlands which may or may not be leftover from Christmas, all under the watch of the Virgin Mary in a shrine perched on high.

I like to judge a place by its tacos and I’m just looking for a cheap snack. My lengua taco has long fried strips of tongue, not the hacked thicker bits I’m used to from TECC, and there’s not much taste to the meat. The cilantro and salty salsa verde are the dominant tastes. When I find myself walking by a few days later I enjoy my lamb taco a bit more. The meat is heaped on the two tortilla shells on my plate—more than enough for me to separate the serving into two tacos. The lamb is greasy and gristly, but tasty and well cooked, all I’m looking for from a $2 snack.

While the tacos are okay and cheap, there’s added value to my trips to Guerrero. There’s a jar of free NYC issued condoms on the kitchen counter to help myself to. The ones with Subway line lettering I’ve only heard about but not seen myself. There’s enough to go around, so I help myself to several handfuls under Mary’s watchful eye. Mother of Christ, avert your modest eyes! Warning, condoms are not 100% effective. They cannot protect against immaculate concepciones.

Guerrero Food Center

722 5th Avenue

Brooklyn, NY

Dumpling House - NY Chinatown

2008-01-22T17:11:00.000-05:00

On Location – NYC Chinatown

I barely recognized The Dumpling House I was seeking when I first walked by. In fact, I almost walked by the place. It looked too nice. There’s no signage. But with Eldridge Street otherwise dead on a freezing Sunday night, I stepped inside the cozy looking eatery to check out the space. Lo and behold, the menu let me know that this was the very kitchen I was seeking.

More on the dumplings later, because the best reason to come is the Sesame Pancake Sandwiches. Huge circles of the sesame loaf sit behind the counter waiting to be carved and stuff. Less than $2 nets a triangle the size of a slice of pizza, split horizontally, and stuffed with your choice of vegetables, roast beef, pork, tuna, or Peking duck! Peking duck sandwich, $1.75! But it’s the pancake itself, freshly baked over an inch thick, intensely flavored by the smoked sesame seeds that make the pancake one of the best and most unique snack finds in Chinatown.

The hand-made dumplings are dirt cheap and what the budget minded crowds come for. One dollar gets you four fried pork ones (with chive or cabbage). Much like the effect that 10 cent buffalo wing nights have on me, I now feel I can never order dumplings anywhere else knowing they’re only 25 cents a piece here. Though while the cheap wing nights often mean a drop in quality, this mecca (see restaurant name) follows the opposite path.

The pouch is large, the dough with just the right amount of chew and not too thick. Though not soup dumplings per se, the dumplings ooze a little liquid. The morsels of pork are spiced well but you’ll want to apply the soy and Sriracha on the tables around you for some added kick. You can get your dumplings boiled instead, and it’s the same price per piece, though the minimum order there is 8. For non-pork eaters, vegetable, chicken, and shrimp versions are available for a few more quarters. Those who want to recreate the dumpling house experience at home can take home a frozen bag of 50 for $8-$12.

But now eating in, or at least ordering, is a much more pleasant experience. The successful business (as featured in all prominent NY papers and magazines, so points out the menu) has consumed its neighboring space, knocked down a wall and completely refurbished its interior. Formica has been replaced with smart mahogany paneled counter, wooden tables and several chairs to linger over. Luckily, the row of industrial, well used steamers and fryers in the open kitchen haven’t changed a bit.

Dumpling House
118A Eldridge Street

Restaraunt Week at TenPenh

2008-01-14T17:14:00.000-05:00

The Passion Food restaurants are among DC's best to visit for Restaurant Week. They do it right, offering practically their entire menu with few upcharges. TenPenh is certainly the best RW week participant close to my Federal Triangle office (I'm not a fan at all of Chef Geoff's). So when my party of 4 other co-workers all bailed on me at the last minute, I cancelled my reservation, but headed over for lunch anyway.

Appetizers were abbreviated from their menu; basically all the selections that cost less than $10 were fair game. I couldn't pass up the lobster bisque "with lobster salad garnish." The bisque, satisfying and not overly thick or rich, was well balanced and nicely complemented by the lobster meat on top. That meat sat on top of a crispy fried wonton wrapper which sat on the soup. And that was the salad (I was envisioning something on a plate). The spring rolls next to me have three fun looking dipping sauces but are amongst the more oily food items I've seen. But that doesn't mean they don't look good! Mmm, high-quality grease!

The Hong Kong Style Crispy Whole Catfish is what I came for. They'll remove the head and tail if you want, but half the fun is having the whole 1 foot+ long creature set before you, battered, fried, and ready to be chopsticked apart. The skin is perfectly seasoned and ready to eat as is. The flesh is cooked well, but needs a dip in the chili tamarind garlic sauce it's served with. Catfish is no cod, but it's just pretty bland if not dressed up. A cucumber salad that comes with the dish features the cuke peeled into long ribbony slivers. The dressing doesn't inspire; its pretty much an Italian vinaigrette and you wish that a place known for it's pan-Asian ingredients would go somewhere more creative. Most of the dressing runs from the salad to the underbelly of the catfish, but the unintended bath tastes good on the fish.

The eatery does a pretty brisk takeout business, apparently and are happy to give me my Yuzu and Citrus tart with strawberries and Chantilly cream to go. It's waiting for me in the fridge!

The catfish is regularly $17. So I basically got soup and a dessert for $1.54 each. And the fish at lunch is a steal, with no upcharge. The only two RW upcharges are $12 for Chinese Style Smoked Lobster and $9 for whole crispy fish on the dinner menu (both are listed as market price on the regular menu). With the upcharge, I'd presume they're serving a more prestigious fish in the evening. Other dinner entrees start as low as $15 for a vegetarian hotpot, but average $26.

It's the first time I've thought to dine alone at a restaraunt bar. With the practice often extolled by WaPo's Tom Sietsema and others, I decided not to let my co-workers' cancellations ruin my reservation. The bartender was charming, efficient, and we even got to trade stories about our multiple Obama sightings at the restaurant.

TenPenh

1001 Pennsylvania Avenue NW

Washington, DC

http://www.tenpenh.com/main.htm

Café Berlin: Not Entertained

2008-01-05T01:25:00.000-05:00

I’ve wanted to check out Café Berlin for a while. Don’t think it’s ever made any sort Best of DC lists ever, but it gets marks from some bloggers as a decent option for German cuisine in DC. And it’s one of the more intriguing and local options in the Entertainment Book that I keep getting every year. Buy one meal, get one free.

The meal confirmed a lesson I should know by know; if you’re giving out buy-one-get-ones in the Entertainment Book, you’re probably a terrible restaurant. This is especially true in the District. Out of the way places need help getting the word out. In the big city, if you’re good, people will come. The good, the bad, and the embarrassed feeling you get whipping out a discount card to get a free meal are worthy of a separate post or three. So I’ll devote the rest of this entry to panning a lousy restaurant.

Bread was a bastard cousin of a loaf of French bread—the kind that’s rubbery, dry, and characteristic of a cheap deli or a lousy German restaurant. You couldn’t see any meat on my plate of sauerbraten; four razor thin strips of tasteless beef drowned in the sweet, red sauce. Served luke-warm, parts of the sauce became gelatinous before the meal ended. Topped off with a gloppy, discolored, reheated potato dumpling was the cherry on top of a failed rendition of this German classic. Nothing like the version or pictures described here. Where's my parsley and carrot stick garnish?! The from-a-can red cabbage served on the side was not at all surprising.

Mom fared a bit better with her jagerschnitzel. The moist cutlet of pork was generous, though not particularly flavorful. The spaetzle and side salad the dish was served with were worthy of Deutschland’s most lackluster cafeteria.

The waiter was well versed in serving up diner pet peeves. The fact that I was hungry certainly didn’t indicate I enjoyed what I was eating, but I cleared my plate. “It looks like we had fun,” he bussed our dishes. It was a slap in the face, considering I thought it was one of the worst meals out I’ve had in some time. No way I was going to order another bite there, but with my Mom’s blessing, he brought over the dessert tray. A flat blueberry tart, a gooey marshmallow fluff cake. Gross! Nothing looked at all appealing and when I said I didn’t want anything, what was his reply? “Oh, that’s too bad.” Are you kidding me? You’re gonna judge what I do and don’t choose to order? If I need another bite of cafeteria food, I’ll grab a scoop of Jell-O at the salad bar at lunch tomorrow.

Cafe Berlin
322 Massachussettes Avenue, NE
Washington, DC

http://www.cafeberlindc.com/

Chinatown DC: A Tale of Two Lunch Specials

2007-12-01T19:35:00.000-05:00

Jackey’s Café $3.50 lunch special is the cheapest around, besting neighboring Eat First by a whole 40 cents! Eat First boasts a picture of John Travolta dining and some old, decent reviews hanging in the window. Which adds up to the best value for lunch? At that price, is either edible?

Jackey’s Cafe
Dish: Kung Pao. Peanuts add a great crunch to the dish. It’s covered in your standard sugary brown sauce which is not bad if you’re in the mood for sweet Americanized Chinese food. The chicken chunks aren’t too big, but you’ll get all the protein you need, and have enough left for a 2nd or even a third meal. At a second visit, tofu with vegetables is not exactly exciting, but is plenty satisfying.

Another diner’s chicken and broccoli makes me think I made the wrong choice. I stayed away, fearing white sauce, slivers of broccoli, and minced chicken. Her plate had many fresh looking crowns and big chunks of good looking chicken.
Rice: The fried rice is just brown and a little bit gummy.
Extras: Comes with a spring roll. It’s dripping grease, but filled with tasty cabbage and shrimp. Above average if it wasn’t so oily.
Condiments: A decent red chili oil, with duck sauce, mustard, and soy on the table.
Tea: No
Service: Friendly and attentive servers. Lots of water refills.
Décor: Surprisingly one of the quaintest spots on the block. Dimly lit with wood paneling, it’s newly renovated.
Cleanliness: Clean.
Cost: $3.50.
Really? The menu lists all specials at $5.95. I have to ask about the $3.50, and find I have two choices. Prices are regularly $5.95, so you’re saving $2.50 if you stay within the confines of the special.

Eat First
Dish: Spicy Chicken. It’s not spicy, and the red chili oil doesn’t help much. The dish has a lot of cabbage in it. It’s all pretty bland.
Rice: Fried rice doesn’t have much in it, but has some crisp and is tasty.
Extras: No.
Tea: Yes.
Service: The place is busy and it’s hard to get my servers attention, whichever one she is. I have to ask for chopsticks and condiments.
Condiments: The red chili oil is boring and is the only thing on the table. If you want soy or anything else, you’ll have to ask for it.
Décor: Stark and white, hospital cafeteria style.
Cleanliness: Seems grimy and worn around the edges.
Cost: $3.90
Really? Some specials are $3.90. Some are $4.20 or $4.80 or higher. There are many more choices here hovering around $4.00.

The winner is Jackey’s by miles! Despite the ‘higher’ price tag, Eat First packs them in because they’ve been written up in the past. Positive reviews give them credence, but I’ve never been impressed. Jackey’s, a relative new comer, is the cheapest around, and offers good quality to boot. If can fit yourself within their limited choices, you’ll be out of Jackey’s for less than $5, including tip!

SF Trip Meal #5: Ebisu

2007-10-09T02:00:00.000-04:00

Ebisu has been honored by locals with numerous best sushi awards, making it the perfect spot for my last meal. Rushing to the airport, I didn’t have time to grab a seat at the pleasant sushi bar, but phoned in for a Sushi Dinner to go ($11.99, served with Miso Soup). The spot was bustling, with an inviting classic sushi bar/wood pane décor, friendly waitresses, and some sushi chef’s lording over the bar like they knew what they were doing. This time, my white to-go bag would have to do. Settled by my gate at Oakland International, I was eager to tear into my nigiri. My 8 nicely arranged pieces had been jostled had been scattered around their container and dried out slightly from their trip to the airport. But the quality of the fish still shined through, as did their generous sizes…3 or 4 bites for each! The octopus offered a good snap to it and the mackerel was smoked modestly so the nature of the fish still came through. Japanese omelet was many times larger and tastier than anything I’ve seen on the East Coast.

http://www.ebisusushi.com/

SF Trip Meal #4: Louie's Dim Sum

2007-10-08T15:00:00.000-04:00

I had trouble finding a winning pick for Dim Sum downtown. The general consensus is that the consensus picks have all gone downhill. The fact that it’s 9:30 on a Monday morning doesn’t help matters any. Most dim sum houses open at 11:00, with the best dumplings and/or cart service being offered only on the weekends. Hunan’s Home, with 2 ‘downhill’ reviews for every 3 raves, is closed. I nearly settle on a Broadway kitchen advertising cheap Chinese breakfast specials until spotting Louie’s Dim Sum tucked into a small storefront. I remembered enough Internet praise the night before to slide in. Countless trays of plain white Chinese buns fill the place, and that’s what the mostly Chinese clientele are coming in for.

But between the buns sits Louie’s pleasantly presented dim sum plate, and though it’s more than I want, for $5, I can spring for the whole thing. Thankful to not be handed the display plate sitting out, the cashier reaches into two large bamboo vats to grab 2 of each dumpling, which look prettier on the plate than in the plastic take out container they’re shoved into.

No carts here. No tables either, just a thin counter with 2 stools. Above the counter are sheets of colored paper explaining dim sum and its place in Chinese culture to the tourists that stop by. And though it explains that dim sum is never served without a pitcher of tea, they don’t serve tea and offer me a Coke instead. I decline. The garlicky green vegetable dumplings--leeks perhaps--with a large, thick skin are the best of the lot. Shu mai style pieces are greasy, somewhat grey, and at times gristly. I'm joining the choir that proclaims that the dim sum here is 'just okay.' But just okay was good enough to fill me up and leave me with snacks for the rest of the afternoon.

http://www.chow.com/places/11223

SF Trip Meal #3: Boudin Bakery

2007-10-06T23:32:00.000-04:00

I figured you can’t be a San Francisco culinary tourist without getting a sourdough fix. And Boudin Bakery by Fisherman’s Wharf, an old, local bakery cum tourist bread factory, is the place for sourdough. But a chowder bread bowl? I thought chowder was a New England thing, and considered just getting a loaf to stand on its own. But a bread filled with soup, for only $6.99, seemed like the right food tourist thing to do.

I should have stuck with my gut. Go to Boudin for the bread and skip the chowder. They ladle the stuff out by the gallon for the hordes that come and you can even buy the chowder by the can in their shop. I envision the chowder coming more from a can than a chef slaving away at vats of large soup pots in the kitchen. My clam chowder comes lukewarm, and with a few potatoes here and a few less clams there, suffers from a creamy blandness of mediocre chowder.

The loaves come in all sizes and shapes (including crocodile shaped). It's not just the smell of fresh-baked bread that fills the air; bread is constantly buzzing above your head. The bakers are constantly churning the stuff out, and a suspended conveyer system hooks bread baskets from the ovens overhead to the shop below.

http://www.boudinbakery.com/

SF Trip Meal #2: The Boat House

2007-10-05T23:20:00.000-04:00

The Boat House, by the cliffs of Bodega Bay, was the meal that had me grinning from ear to ear with contentment. A long day touring Sonoma wineries and Redwood forests, and the Bodega Bay had left us famished and desperate for dinner. But we wouldn’t have even found the place if we hadn’t turned back to check out a promising looking (from the outside) café we had previously passed. Looking for some fast comfort food, their $32 vegetable risottos were not quite what we were looking for. Ah, California cuisine! We kept driving.

Shortly down the road, a neon anchor sign advertising fresh fish and chips? Yes please! Walking to the entrance, with the Bodega Bay police force exiting the shack with happy faces, I knew we had found gold. Place your order at the counter and grab a table (with plastic checkered table cloths). A bottle of Boont Amber Ale helped tide me over. So did the snapshots of countless fishing expeditions. Memories from hauls of squid and sharks, mammoth albacore and cod, and crates of Dungeness crab line the wall and add to the anticipation of the meal.

As I wait for my basket to arrive and eye the bowls of egg and flour I could see by the fryer, I knew there’d be no Gordon’s fish sticks here! A generous portion of juicy fried clams and chips were perfectly fried, served in a perfectly quaint red plastic basket, and washed down by a perfectly refreshing beer. The four large filets that came with the fish basket were flaky, with a crispy, thick batter clinging to the fish. With a squeeze of lemon and an extra cup of tartar sauce, the greasy (but not too greasy) fist is simple, spot on, and filling. The Boat House also serves burgers, dogs, chicken sandwiches, and salads for the unfortunate land lubber. But stay away. You're here for the fried fish (and maybe a local microbrew or two).

http://www.chow.com/places/6757
http://www.avbc.com/beers/amber.html

SF Trip Meal #1: Pancho Villa

2007-10-04T23:35:00.000-04:00

An award winning salsa bar draws the crowds at Pancho Villa Taqueria (Mission and 16^th). A bright green salsa verde is the most memorable choice from the bar. It's far too salty, but that’s made up for by the chunks of avocado within. As an East Coaster, I usually scoff at heat advisories. The 'hot' labels at Baja Fresh? No problemo. But I quickly learned that they take 'hot' labels for real in California. Whole roasted jalapeños and jalapeños and carrots en vinegar, meant to be used sparingly as a topping, make a great free side dish at first. I already requested the hot pico de gallo on my carne asada burrito. After my habanero hors d' oeuvres and after stuffing a few extras into my burrito, I'm tearing in no time. Mom calls to see how my trip is going, but I'm forced to get off the phone because I can't keep from crying and chewing the ice from my drained glass of horchata. The pain was so intense that I couldn't be bothered to take a picture of the burrito sans foil (see photo).

Along with the salsa bar, the variety of the English friendly menu also helps distinguish Pancho from its competitors. Choose from 12 meats from a mouthwatering chicken in green or red sauce to tofu ranchero. There's 4 types of beans and 5 wrap choices. The only Spanish being spoken is by a young woman there to apply for a job, and despite the heat, the enormous, all English menu leaves the impression that the place caters mostly to American palates. Tofu ranchero burrito with a sundried tomato tortilla, anyone?

http://panchovillasf.com/